As temperatures start to drop and winter is approaching, you may need to winterise and prepare your boat/RIB for storage. Owners sometimes don’t realise that making your boat ready for sub-zero conditions and harsh weather is essential to protect their boat’s longevity.
But with a few simple precautions and proven tricks, your boat will hibernate soundly, less susceptible to damage during winter storage and be ready for springtime fun.
HULL & INTERIOR
WASH, COMPOUND & WAX
First things first: Do a thorough exterior wash that includes the hull, deck and cabin or centre console structure. Don’t forget about gutter tracks along windows, the hardtop, underneath gunwales, inside lockers or the tackle station and the helm/dash.
Once everything is dry, compound and wax the fibreglass surfaces to cut through any residue and make the gelcoat surfaces shine like new.
SCRUB, LUBRICATE & POLISH
Clean all canvas shades, windows and enclosures, then scrub the seats and apply vinyl conditioner. Lubricate all zippers so they don’t freeze up and polish the stainless steel to remove handprints on grab rails, locker pulls, tank fills and more. Condition the rub rail with a restorer.
CARE FOR ELECTRONICS
Never use a hose when cleaning electronics like engine gages or your multifunction display (MFD). Only use spray bottles with products specifically designed for MFDs and consult your owner’s manual for recommended care instructions.
CLEAN CARPETING
Vacuum and/or hose off fixed carpeting. Don’t use a pressure washer that can cause damage. Biodegradable boat soap or a mild detergent and water is fine. Adding some vinegar to the water can help cut salt buildup, too.
REMOVE WATER SPOTS
Water spots act like glue for future dirt. Furthermore, you never want to cover a boat that’s still wet, since mold and mildew thrive in dark, damp places (more on that shortly). Be sure to dry and wipe down the whole boat from bow to stern. (Do this each time you finish the day and when detailing at the end of the season.) You can use a non-acidic, all-purpose marine cleaner and degreaser for tough spots and then wipe down with soft cloth.
CLEAN THE COVER
First, you don’t want to put a dirty cover over a clean boat! Brush any visible dirt off the cover before washing, rinsing and drying it. Use support poles underneath the cover to keep rain/snow from building up or pooling. As mentioned above, make sure your boat is completely dry before covering it.
INSPECT THE INTERIOR
There’s more to do below deck on larger boats with a cabin. Scrub all fixtures in the head and galley, making sure to empty food lockers, wipe down the refrigerator and prop it open to air it out. Clean or remove bedding and prop up mattresses to keep mildew and odours from forming. You may want to add a chemical moisture absorber for enclosed spaces or an electric dehumidifier if your batteries will be topped up regularly, or you can run an external electrical cord as long as you can inspect it regularly for safety.
EXTRAS
Don’t forget the radar arch and the power cord which gets sticky with dirt. In some cases, you may want to also clean the bilge and remember the trailer should be washed, rinsed and stored in good working order so it’s ready to launch next time.
A thorough cleaning and detailing will take anywhere from a few hours to a full day depending on the size and condition of your boat. Most tasks are simple and require little specific skill– just lots of elbow grease. By tackling the job yourself, you’ll know it was done right and you might even have a little fun in the DIY boat detailing process.
RIB TUBES – SHOULD IT BE INFLATED OR DEFLATED
Maybe the most common confusion about wintertime storage of RIB boats is whether to leave them inflated or deflated. It’s best to keep your inflatable inflated, if possible, though there are ways to properly store your boat deflated.
STORING YOUR RIB INFLATED
When you store your inflatable boat pumped up, the surface of the tubing will be taught and resistant to getting caught or punctured. RIB tubing is strongest when inflated, and the seams and attachments hold up best when under pressure.
Storing your boat inflated also protects it from nibbling mice in your storage area. When the tubing is left uninflated, it’s an easy target for curious rodents.
Some new RIB owners think it’s a good idea to split the difference between inflated and deflated, thinking it will give them the best of both worlds. Sadly, this isn’t the case. RIBs are only military-tough when they’re pumped up, so it’s better to find a new storage area for your boat rather than to compromise.
Remember to check your inflatable periodically to see if it needs more air pressure. With changing temperatures and long-term storage, the air pressure can slowly decrease.
STORING YOUR RIB DEFLATED
We recommend only storing your RIB deflated for short periods until you can move it to someplace you can store it fully inflated. But, if you must store your boat deflated, there are a few things you can do to minimise the problems that can arise:
- Wash it thoroughly before storage. When in the water, your boat attracts residue and microorganisms that you should wash off before storing it for an extended period. It’s much easier to do a quick wash before storage than cleaning your RIB after it sits for a long time.
- Store it dry. Make sure there isn’t any lingering moisture. A little water plus a dark storage area can mean mold and mildew. If possible, store your boat in a dry place.
- Keep it off the floor and away from the wall. Besides avoiding objects that can puncture your boat, you’ll help keep it away from mice.
- Don’t keep an inflatable a metal shed. When an inflatable boat is left in a non-controlled environment like a small shed, it often experiences amplified highs in the day and lows at night, which puts stress on the tubing material and seams of your boat. Try to choose a storage area that doesn’t have large temperature swings, such as your garage or a storage facility.
- If you have no room for indoor storage, a better option is to simply get a good cover for your boat and leave it on its trailer in a protected outdoor area. That way, it’s easy to check on, and you can pump a little air into it when necessary.
ENGINES
Before undertaking any DIY winterisation process, review and understand your manufacturer’s guides to ensure you are taking the correct steps for your specific boat and engine(s).
Here is a step-by-step guide on how to winterise your petrol outboard engine-powered boat in preparation for winter.
FLUSH AND DRAIN WATER LINES
Water expands under extremely low winter temperatures causing damage. Be sure to drain water from the engine cooling systems, plumbing system, or any other system holding water (sinks, tanks, and heads). Flush the engine using water muffs until the engine reaches the optimum operating temperature.
REPLACE ENGINE OIL AND FLUIDS
Different engines require different materials and methods to be fully winterised. Regardless, it’s essential to check your operator’s manual for the requirements.
- Change all fluids and filters as required. Ensure proper levels, including the oil, coolant, steering fluid, transmission/lower unit fluid, and outdrive oil.
- Inspect the fuel lines for any cracking and stiffness, and replace any line showing signs of wear and tear.
- Grease all the moving parts.
STABILISE FUEL
Fuel deteriorates in a short lifespan and causes the build-up of varnish and gum in the engine, resulting in hard starts, poor performance and reduced engine life.
- Top up the fuel tank with fresh fuel.
- Add a fuel stabiliser/additive to prevent the build-up of varnish in the fuel lines, fuel injector, or carburettor.
- Ensure you run stabilised fuel through your engine.
PROTECT INTERNAL ENGINE COMPONENTS
During storage, engine oil drains away, potentially exposing internal engine components to scuffing and corrosion.Use a fogging spray that coats internal engine components with a layer of anti-corrosive protection.
BATTERIES
The best way to store your batteries for the winter is at home, if possible. There, you can set them up with a trickle charger somewhere out of the way, and they’ll be in good shape and ready to go in the spring.
If storing them at home isn’t a viable option, you can keep them in the storage lot or the boatyard aboard your vessel, as long as you can use solar power or an outlet with a trickle charger.
Remember, different types of batteries have different charger needs, so be sure to check what your battery requires before buying a charger.
The one thing you must avoid is leaving your batteries on your boat without a charger all winter since this reduces the longevity of your battery. You’re likely to have a dead battery after you pull your boat out of storage.
This list is no means exhaustive but it will give you a good idea of the things to consider when putting your boat to bed for winter.
Here at TOTAL BOAT SALES we like to prepare our family of boaters with the know-how to maximise their boating experience. The more you know about your boat’s systems and how to maintain them, the easier it will be for you to continue enjoying your time on the water.
If you have any questions about winterising your boat/RIB, like us to carry out any of the services above or would like advise on which products to use then feel free to contact us